The soul of rural Argentina is found on its estancias, where life still follows the rhythms of the land.
From the windswept plains of Patagonia to the high-altitude valleys of Salta and the wetlands of Iberá, these historic ranches – and the gauchos who work them – are deeply connected to the land and to Argentina’s identity. Over two decades, we’ve travelled the length of the country in search of the very best of them, exploring on horseback and spending time with the families who call them home.
Some are beautifully restored country houses filled with antiques, offering polished, well-oiled hospitality; others are wonderfully simple family-run ranches where the charm lies in their lack of frills. What unites Argentina’s best estancias is that they remain family homes and working farms, giving them an authenticity that no hotel could ever hope to replicate: guests are welcomed into a way of life that has changed little over the centuries.
These, then, are the estancias we find ourselves recommending time and again.
1. Estancia Pampa Grande, Salta
Set in an unexpectedly lush valley in the mountains of northern Argentina, Pampa Grande is a 30,000 hectare working estancia surrounded by rolling green hills, streams and forest – a striking contrast to the desert landscapes and cacti that dominate much of the region.
The estate once belonged to the founder of Salta, 400 years ago, and later passed to General Arenales, one of the founding fathers of Argentina. Today, it remains a working farm with its own village, gaucho community, and local school. A handsome colonial house sits at the centre, with eleven guest rooms arranged around a pretty central courtyard.
The gauchos are continuously going about their daily tasks and if you want to join them you need to be up and ready to go on horseback at 7.30am – whether that’s helping to herd cattle on horseback, milk the cows in the morning or move horses to the corral. When not in the saddle, guests can hike to the hilltop with a local gaucho (who clears the path with a machete as you go!), borrow a mountain bike, lend a hand in the kitchen making empanadas, swim in the pool, play table tennis, visit the local school, or read in a shady corner of the gardens with a glass of homemade lemonade.
Evenings begin by the fire pit for G&Ts and snacks before everyone gathers around a big dining table for some of the best home cooking we’ve had in Argentina – including a huge bowl of homemade dulce de leche placed on the table at every meal.
2. Estancia Pilolil, Northern Patagonia
Pilolil is a beautifully restored, family-owned 1890s estancia on the banks of the Aluminé River offering wonderfully warm hospitality, dramatic landscapes and some of the best fly-fishing in Patagonia. There are two houses – one with four bedrooms, and one with two – and guests are hosted personally by owners Guillermo and Luz, together with Carlitos, the head gaucho, who introduces guests to ranch life.
Set within 23,000 acres of wide-open wilderness, there is space to ride or hike all day without seeing another person, whether following the river, climbing into the hills or heading out overnight, glamping in a bell tent deep in the wilderness before returning to the lodge the next day. Fly fishermen come for the wild rainbow and brown trout, with private access to 30km of the Aluminé River and 13km of the Nahuel Mapi stream. Non-riders can explore the steppe and canyon trails by mountain bike or 4×4, and there’s red deer hunting during the autumn bellowing season.
Chef Hueso trained under Francis Mallmann, so much of the cooking is done over fire using produce from the huerta (veg patch), and baker Franciso Seubert taught the team to bake sourdough. The stables are home to a wonderfully atmospheric bar where guests gather for cocktails after a day’s fishing or riding while one of the gauchos prepares the evening’s asado outside.
3. Estancia Don Joaquin, Ibera Wetlands
Deep in one of the world’s largest freshwater wetlands, Don Joaquín feels gloriously cut off from the modern world. Set across 6,500 acres of grassland, marshes and lagoons, and home to more than 100 horses, it feels very much like being invited to stay with family: owners Angie, Diego and their team are consummate hosts and make every guest feel immediately at home.
The main house is every inch the classic Argentine estancia, with large, comfortable guest rooms looking out across the grasslands, wide verandas, and beautiful gardens with shady corners to sit with a drink after a day’s riding. At the foot of the gardens, the stables and pool await – a welcome place to cool off in the afternoon heat.
Guests head out on horseback each morning and afternoon, cantering across open pasture, splashing through rivers and lagoons, and working cattle alongside the gauchos. Sunset rides often end with Aperol spritzes waiting for you by the river. There are horseback games, gaucho polo on the lawns, lasso lessons and the chance to swim with the horses in the lagoon. Those looking for a proper expedition can use it as jumping-off point for the Gaucho Trail ride: four full days in the saddle, riding 7–8 hours a day through the countryside, stopping for trailside lunches and siestas, and spending each night at a different estancia.
Away from the saddle, the Iberá is one of South America’s great wildlife regions, and guests can set out on nature safaris spotting capybara, caiman, flamingos, ostriches and marsh deer, or birdwatching with a guide. Angie and Diego can also organise boat trips on the lagoon, fishing for dorado, and cooking classes in the open kitchen.
4. Estancia Los Potreros, Cordoba
Los Potreros – affectionately known as Los Pots – is one of Argentina’s classic estancia stays, and for good reason. Set among the rolling hills of Córdoba’s Sierras Chicas, the estancia has been run by the Anglo-Argentine Begg family for four generations, whose warm hospitality has earned it a devoted following. The farmhouse and scattered cottages are full of character, with wood-burning stoves, shelves lined with old books and comfortable bedrooms overlooking paddocks where horses graze.
Riding here is gentler than in the Andes, following trails through rolling hills, woodland and open pasture, with options for both leisurely rides and longer days in the saddle. More adventurous riders can join the gauchos, while others might spend the afternoon on a guided walk, birdwatching, or swimming beneath a secluded waterfall.
What really sets Los Pots apart is the sociable atmosphere. Meals are taken around a communal table and each night feels like a dinner party, with the hosts ensuring conversation never runs dry. No two nights are quite the same: there might be an empanada-making lesson with the chefs, a tasting of Argentine wines, or local musicians playing before dinner. Guests quickly get to know one another, making it an ideal choice for those who value good company as much as time in the saddle.
5. Estancia El Condor, El Chaltén
The journey to El Condor isn’t for the faint-hearted: the estancia sits on the shores of Lake San Martín, around five hours from El Calafate, all along gravel roads. But the journey is part of the experience; by the time you arrive, Patagonia has already begun to work its magic. The setting is unbelievably beautiful, among jagged mountains and electric blue lakes, with the condors for which it’s named constantly gliding overhead.
This is primarily a place for experienced riders. The horses are exceptional, bred for Patagonia’s difficult terrain, and each day guests can cover considerable distances. Beyond riding, activities are limited to walks through the surrounding countryside and dips in the lake.
The lodge itself is simple and extremely rustic, with six comfortable bedrooms, sheepskin rugs, wood-burning stoves, and shelves stacked with old travel books. Electricity is limited and there is no phone signal, making it an easy place to switch off completely. Owner Rafa and his wife Dolores keep things refreshingly straightforward; don’t expect polished service, but do expect warm hospitality, hearty home cooking and some of the best riding in Patagonia.
6. Estancia La Tomasa, Pampas
Just three hours from Buenos Aires, Estancia La Tomasa is a 2,000-hectare working cattle ranch that has belonged to the same Scottish-Argentine family for seven generations. Today, Luisa Gibson runs the estancia alongside her five daughters, a rarity in Argentina’s traditionally male-dominated ranching world, and the 1893 adobe farmhouse, carefully restored in recent years, has recently begun welcoming guests.
Guests stay in the family home and are encouraged to experience the estancia as it really is. The Pampas is flat, open cattle country, so riding here is less about technical terrain and more about daily ranch life. You might spend the morning with the gauchos as they move cattle between paddocks, checking livestock or watching seasonal work such as branding and weaning. There are horses to suit all abilities, from beginners to experienced riders looking to spend long days exploring the endless plains. Between rides, head to the lagoon to spot capybaras and birdlife and picnic on its shores, or take a tour of the farm and its historic railway.
Accommodation is intimate, with just five guest rooms, and no more than two groups welcomed at the same time to keep the personal feel. Breakfasts are a glorious spread of fresh eggs from the farm, homemade jams and bread, whipped up by eldest daughter and resident chef Sofia, while dinner is served communally around the family table, with asados often shared with the family and gauchos after a day’s work.
Our Approach
We’ve stayed at each of these estancias – and many more, besides – and know them well. Whether you’re looking for an exceptionally comfortable experience or prefer to go more rustic and back to basics, are prioritising riding or fishing, or need somewhere for a group of mixed ages and interests, we can steer you to the place that’s right for you.
Many of Argentina’s best estancias are in remote parts of the country and take time to get to, so are best experienced as part of a wider journey. Whether you want to focus solely on riding or pair an estancia experience with the vineyards of Mendoza, the glaciers of southern Patagonia, or time in Buenos Aires, our specialists will help plot a sensible route to make the most of your time.
Our founder, Harry Hastings, is a lifelong rider and lived in Argentina for a decade. He is always delighted to advise on more ambitious itineraries on horseback, which can include multi-day, estancia-to-estancia trips with the country’s top guides, or nights in remote fly camps under the stars.
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