A family-owned, century-old estancia on the Aluminé River, with some of Patagonia’s finest trout fishing and riding.
Estancia Pilolil is set across 9,000 hectares of open steppe and canyon country in northern Patagonia, with more than 10 miles of private riverfront winding through the property. It is still a working cattle ranch, with just six bedrooms, split between the main house and the separate Walnut House.
Days are spent fishing the Aluminé and Nahuel Mapi rivers, riding with gauchos, and exploring on foot, mountain bike or by 4×4. Everyone comes together for dinner in the evening; much of the produce is grown on the farm or sourced locally, and the owners are closely involved in life at the lodge.
What we love about Estancia Pilolil
- Exceptionally well set-up for fishing, with access to brown and rainbow trout water for both floating and wading, and world-class guiding; the Main House even has its own wading room.
- The main house has four upstairs bedrooms — two en suite and two sharing a bathroom — as well as a firelit sitting room and a 12-person dining room.
- A 50-yard walk through the walnut trees leads to the separate Walnut House, with two en-suite bedrooms, its own sitting and dining rooms and a deck.
- Outstanding food, much of it grown on the nine-hectare farm or sourced nearby, prepared by a team headed up by a chef who worked with Francis Mallmann.
- The bar in the stables – a perfect place to enjoy a cocktail around the fireplace after a fishing day, while a gaucho prepares the asado.
- A real sense of remoteness without the long journey: Pilolil is one of our favourite corners of northern Patagonia, yet just 1 hour 20 minutes from Chapelco Airport.
Fish crystal-clear waters, ride with the gauchos, or explore the estancia on foot, by bike or 4×4.
Pilolil has around 10km of the Aluminé to itself, with healthy populations of brown and rainbow trout, and a mix of riffles, deep pools and long, slower runs; fishing is by drift boat and on foot, with one guide to every two anglers. A typical day starts around 8am, breaking for a picnic and siesta at midday before fishing again in the afternoon; the Nahuel Mapi, Lago Tromen and other nearby waters can also be fished.
Head out on horseback with Carlitos, the head gaucho, across open steppe and along canyon trails, or venture into more remote parts of the estancia by e-bike or 4×4. There are caves containing paintings thought to date back around 1,500 years, and guided birding can be arranged to spot Andean condors, bandurrias and other species. Come in early May and you can join the annual cattle drive to the winter pastures, followed by a large asado back at the estancia.
For a change of pace, spend a night beneath the stars at the riverside camp; bell tents are set up with proper beds and linen, with drinks and dinner cooked over the fire.
Domestic flight from Buenos Aires to San Martin de los Andes, Chapelco Airport, located in the Province of Neuquén, Argentina in northern Patagonia.
From here, a driver and guide with transfer you to Estancia Pilolil, passing through indigenous landscapes full of history.
When to Travel
Estancia Pilolil is open from November to April, however bookings for other dates can be requested (the fly fishing season runs into May).
Each year, around 8th May they move the cattle to winter pastures and the farm has a huge BBQ on the weekend closest to this date.
Pilolil has a micro climate, with reliably good weather throughout the season.
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Into Gaucho Country: Argentina’s Best Estancias
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