TAILOR-MADE LUXURY TRIPS TO CHILOE
Across the Chacao Channel, Chiloé is a folkloric archipelago of fishing villages, wooden churches, green farmland and wild Pacific beaches.
Centuries of relative isolation have preserved a culture distinct from mainland Chile, shaped by seafaring, small-scale farming, Catholicism and indigenous traditions. Chiloé also has its own rich mythology, populated by witches, forest spirits and the Caleuche, a ghost ship said to sail the channels at night.
Explore the islands by car and boat, following quiet coastal roads and stopping in small ports and markets for oysters, mussels, smoked fish, and dozens of varieties of native potato; the seafood here is among the best in Chile. More than 150 colourful, wood-shingled churches are scattered across the archipelago, sixteen of them UNESCO-listed, and colourful palafitos – wooden stilt houses – sit out over the water above the tide.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO ON CHILOÉ
Start in Castro, visiting its waterfront palafitos and the yellow-painted Church of San Francisco, with its wood-carvings of mythical creatures.
Continue north to Dalcahue, timing your visit for its artisanal market, when islanders arrive by boat to sell knitted blankets, socks and other pieces hand-woven from local wool. Explore the quieter eastern islands by traditional wooden boat, sailing to Chelín and Quehui, spotting dolphins and sea lions en route; on clear days, there are views across the water to the snow-covered Corcovado, Chaitén and Michinmahuida volcanoes on the mainland.
The west coast is wilder. Walk through Valdivian rainforest in Chiloé National Park towards the Pacific, looking for tiny pudú deer and the elusive Darwin’s fox, hike or ride along the coast around Cucao, or kayak on Lake Cucao. Further north at Puñihuil, there are rocky islets where Humboldt and Magellanic penguins breed side by side.
Food is one of the best ways into Chilote life. Visit local farmers and fishermen, gather shellfish along the shores, and learn about the extraordinary variety of potatoes native to the islands. Be sure to try curanto: the island’s traditional dish of clams, giant mussels, meat and potatoes, cooked underground over hot stones beneath enormous nalca (rhubarb) leaves.
ELSEWHERE IN CHILE
Chile captivates with its dramatic landscapes, from the arid Atacama Desert to the majestic peaks of Torres del Paine and the emerald lakes of Chile’s Lake District.
It’s a land of striking contrasts, where ancient traditions sit alongside a dynamic, contemporary culture – and we’ve spent years exploring its every corner. From the buzzing capital city of Santiago to the celebrated vineyards of the Central Valley, we can open doors to places and people few travellers will ever encounter. Chile is vast, complex, and deeply rewarding – and we know how to make it yours.
Field Notes