Deep in Brazil’s southern Pantanal, Caiman is a high-end wilderness lodge and conservation project that offers a singular approach to the safari experience.
Situated at the heart of a 53,000-hectare private reserve and cattle ranch in the world’s largest tropical wetland, Caiman is one of the best places on Earth to observe the elusive jaguar in the wild – along with over 650 species of birds, 80 mammals, and 400 types of fish that call this vast wilderness home.
Guests can stay in the main homestead, Casa Caiman – the former home of the owners – or one of two private villas. Each day, head out by 4×4, on foot, horseback or by canoe to explore the reserve, led by Caiman’s expert naturalist and field guides.
What we love about Caiman
- The main lodge, Casa Caiman, has 18 comfortable, unfussy suites, a swimming pool, gym, sauna, outdoor terrace and firepit.
- Spectacularly remote natural setting surrounded by wetlands, open grassland and forest, with caiman, capybaras and prolific birdlife often seen around the lodge.
- All meals are included, with hearty Brazilian cooking; much of the fruit and vegetables comes from the farm, and barbecues use beef raised on the estancia.
- Two guided excursions are offered each day, led by bilingual English-Portuguese naturalist guides, including game drives, canoe tours, forest walks and nocturnal safaris.
- Conservation underpins everything at Caiman; 10% of the land is set aside as protected area, and the reserve is home to multiple projects and NGOs focusing on jaguars, hyacinth macaws and giant anteaters.
- For those who prefer their own space, Caiman also has two standalone villas, each with a private chef, host and guiding; seven-bedroom Casa Cordilheira is our pick.
Head out in open 4x4s with Caiman’s naturalist and field guides in search of jaguars, giant anteaters, tapirs, capybaras and caiman.
Onçafari has studied Caiman’s jaguars since 2011, and its biologists know many of the cats individually, following their territories, cubs and movements over time. Join the team in the field for an exceptional chance of seeing jaguars at close range, or accompany the Hyacinth Macaw Institute as researchers monitor breeding pairs and check nests across the reserve.
You might also paddle the wetlands by Canadian canoe, walk through the forest learning about flora and fauna, head out on a night drive to spot nocturnal wildlife by torchlight, or ride with local Pantaneiro cowboys, watching cattle being worked across the grasslands and stopping for tereré in the shade.
Between outings, kick back by the pool listening to the birdsong, snooze in a hammock or read your book in a peaceful corner of the garden. In the evenings, gather around the bonfire, sharing stories, drinking wine and admiring the night sky.
Caiman Lodge is located in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, within the southern portion of the Pantanal region. The Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland area and is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve and World Natural Heritage Site.
There are two airports close to Caiman Lodge. Campo Grande, which is about 3 and a half hours from the lodge by car, has direct flights to and from Sao Paulo and Brasilia.
The other airport, Bonito, is closer to the lodge (2 and a half hours by car), but has fewer flight options.
Caiman also has a private airstrip able to receive turbo-prop aircraft, should you wish to charter a flight directly to the lodge.
When to Travel
The dry season runs from June to October. Water levels recede, vegetation becomes less dense and wildlife concentrates around the remaining ponds and waterways, generally making animals easier to locate. Temperatures are also cooler, particularly in the mornings and evenings.
From November to May, rainfall increases and seasonal flooding transforms large areas of the Pantanal into wetlands. Vegetation is greener, water levels are higher and birdlife is particularly abundant.
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