South America is the secret season every serious skier has on their radar – and for good reason.
When the lifts grind to a halt in the north, the Andes come alive. Alongside New Zealand, it’s one of the few places in the world where you can keep the winter dream going through July – November.
While it’s often imagined to be the domain of cliff-huckers and Red Bull-sponsored daredevils, South American skiing offers far more than high-octane extremes. You’ll find remote lodges reachable only by air. Boutique resorts with no lift queues. Alpine-style villas overlooking Patagonian lakes. Sidecountry bowls you can lap until your legs give out. The terrain is varied, and glorious.
Whether you’re after a classic resort hotel, a high-altitude adventure lodge, or a once-in-a-lifetime ski trip aboard a Patagonian superyacht, this is our guide to South America’s best ski destinations.
- For a Ski-In/Ski-Out Resort Experience
HOTEL PORTILLO, CHILE
Portillo is South America’s most iconic ski hotel – and proudly stuck in time. It’s not the slickest or the newest, but the service is outstanding, and the atmosphere unbeatable.
Guests are a mix of seasoned regulars (the US ski team comes every winter), legendary staff, and first-timers who immediately see the appeal. Some come every year for decades. There are just four chairlifts, plus the slightly eccentric Va et Vient—a poma-like lift with a traverse system that accesses four incredible bowls. But with only 400–500 people able to ski here at any one time, you’ll never find yourself queuing.
For families, Portillo is hard to beat. It’s so compact that you’ll see your kids skiing throughout the day, check in with their instructor at lunch, and still manage some proper runs together. For beginners, the lack of crowds makes learning far less stressful. And for expert skiers? There’s steep, untouched sidecountry you can lap relentlessly straight from the lifts. Our local guide Lucas regularly takes veteran skiers from Jackson Hole or Telluride out for a spin and has them knackered by lunch. It’s that kind of place. That said, if you’re after cruisy groomers, you’ll find the options a bit limited.
Getting there: A 2.5-hour drive from Santiago along a major commercial road, or a 45-minute heli transfer straight from the airport. Land at 7am and be on the slopes by 9:30.
How long to spend: Choose from Saturday–Saturday or Wednesday–Wednesday (mini-weeks also available). The setup means you’ll often get an extra ski day on departure.
Best time to go: July and September are best for families (expect a strong Brazilian and Chilean crowd). If travelling with friends, August is the sweet spot, when the mountain fills with skiers from North America, Europe, and Australia.
HOTEL VALLE NEVADO, CHILE
The 51-room Valle Nevado is arguably the chicest ski hotel in South America, and the top choice if groomed terrain is your thing. It’s perched right on the slopes, with balconies overlooking the cordillera and an outdoor pool that tends to be full of champagne flutes come après. Here, the runs are wide, the lift system is modern, and the whole place is neatly integrated into a dramatic Andean ridgeline just 90 minutes from Santiago.
From here, you can also explore neighbouring resorts La Parva and El Colorado. La Parva is more of a locals’ spot – Santiago families with ski houses and season passes – but the terrain is fantastic and the lift connections make it easy to hop between areas. If you’re coming for a week from abroad, you’ll usually get a day pass included.
Getting there: Fly into Santiago and you’re just 1.5 hours by road from the resort – no need for domestic flights. Most flights into Santiago are overnight, so you can land in the morning and be skiing by lunchtime.
How long to spend: Check-in and check-out days are Fridays and Tuesdays, with stays of 3, 4 or 7 nights. Combine it with a few days in Portillo if you want to mix things up.
Best time to go: Same as Portillo – though best to avoid weekends, when the slopes fill up with city skiers.
2. For The Heli-Skier
RIO PALENA, CHILE
Set in one of the most remote corners of Chilean Patagonia, Rio Palena is a heli-ski lodge for those who take their adventure seriously – and their downtime even more so. Surrounded by glaciers, old-growth forests and high-altitude bowls, it offers access to some of the most untouched ski terrain on the continent, and regularly draws the world’s top freeskiers.
The lodge itself is high spec but low-key, more fireside dinner party than five-star formality. On good days, it’s ski heaven. Patagonia’s lower elevation, topping out around 1,800 – 2,000 metres, means the snow here is moister and more consistent than in Chile’s Central Valley. This is corn-snow territory, that coveted, gold-standard spring snow that offers smooth turns and dependable descents.
And while many skiers fantasise about waist-deep fluff, that’s not always the best ride in a setting like this. When you’re logging 7,000 vertical metres a day, far from ski patrols and fallback routes, consistency matters. “Most people can handle deep powder off the side of a groomer, or hiking in-resort,” says Lucas. “But throw them into the middle of Patagonia with the added stress of the environment, and they find they prefer something more reliable.”
Weather in this part of the world can be temperamental. When it doesn’t co-operate, there’s still plenty to do: whitewater rafting, fly-fishing, mountain biking – you name it.
Getting there: Fly to Puerto Montt, connect to Chaitén or Futaleufú, and transfer to the lodge from Palena.
How long to spend: 4-7 nights.
Best time to go: Late September to mid-November, when the weather settles and the snowpack is at its best.
REÑIHUE LODGE, CHILE
Tucked between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, Reñihue is among the most discreet – and exclusive – heli-ski operations on the continent. Once owned by conservationist and North Face founder Douglas Tompkins, the lodge sits quietly at sea level, with skiing up to 2,400 metres and a brooding volcano dominating the skyline.
This isn’t your typical heli-ski set-up. There’s no main lodge. Instead, there are three private houses, each hosting a group of four skiers per week. You can gather for supper in the communal dining room or keep it low-key in your own house with a private chef. The vibe is more wilderness house party than ski resort.
When the weather plays ball, the terrain is vast and wild. And when it doesn’t, which is always a possibility this far south, there are options. You might fly out to Tierra Chiloé for a spa day, soak in a hot spring, or simply hole up with a book and watch storms roll in through the valley.
Getting there: Fly to Puerto Montt, then charter a flight to Chaitén. From there, it’s just 100m to the lodge’s private airstrip.
How long to spend: One week is standard.
Best time to go: Late September to mid-November.
3. For Big-Mountain Resort Skiing
LAS LEÑAS, ARGENTINA
Think of it as heli-skiing without the helicopter. Las Leñas is famed for its lift-accessed off-piste terrain – wild, open, and exhilarating. The ski area drops away into bowls and couloirs straight from the chairlift, making it one of the most thrilling resort-based options in the Southern Hemisphere. That said, it’s a gamble: some years bring legendary powder; others fall short. Snowfall here is everything.
There’s no town to speak of, just the resort, and a handful of hotels and apartments. Everyone is here for the same reason. Après starts at the base of the mountain and carries on into the evening, with DJ sets, decent dining, and a party scene that doesn’t bother changing out of its ski boots.
Where to stay? Virgo is the best bet. Right by the lift, it’s ski-in/ski-out, and is staffed by young seasonal types who keep the energy up.
Getting there: It’s remote. Expect a 3-hour drive from San Rafael or 4h15 from Mendoza.
How long to spend: 4-7 nights.
Best time to go: Late July to mid-August.
4. For the Alpine Chalet Experience
PRIVATE HOME, BARILOCHE
Unlike the Alps, you won’t find ski-in/ski-out chalets tucked along the piste in South America. Patagonia’s top resorts sit within national parks, which means private homes on the slopes simply aren’t allowed. But Bariloche offers an alternative that’s just as compelling – the chance to stay in a private villa in the city, with a driver on standby to whisk you to and from Cerro Catedral, just 20-30 minutes away.
The largest ski area in the Southern Hemisphere, Cerro Catedral has the most modern lift system in South America. Grooming here is world-class, says Lucas; off-piste, conditions are more variable, but it’s still his favourite resort on the continent. Expect European-style queues (i.e., a little freeform), a string of independently owned mountain restaurants, and plenty of English spoken. He always recommends hiring a guide on day one – not just to show you the best snow, but to handle equipment rental, navigate the lift system, and secure the all-important lunch reservation.
Back in Bariloche, we’ve got a portfolio of private properties to choose from. At Arelauquen Country Club, villas stretch to 4,000 square feet and offer access to tennis courts, golf, gym, and spa. Just across the lake, French-style chalets come with swimming pools, wine cellars, and terraces overlooking the water – more Annecy than the Andes. You get the privacy and charm of a catered chalet, but with the added bonus of Bariloche’s buzzing restaurant scene and other outdoor pursuits just down the road. The experience is unique, and far more atmospheric than staying slope-side.
And the clincher? Rates are dramatically lower than anything comparable in Europe or North America, which means you can go all out on extras – private chefs, guides, drivers – and still come in under Aspen.
Getting there: Bariloche is served by direct flights from Buenos Aires and other major Argentine cities. The town sits just 30 minutes from the lifts.
How long to spend: 5-7 nights is ideal – enough enough time to ski Catedral, explore Bariloche’s food scene, and fit in a day trip or two.
Best time to go: The season runs from late June to early October, with the best conditions in July and August. Mid-July is a local holiday peak, but thanks to restricted local pass access – and steep day ticket prices that price out most Argentines – crowds stay manageable. For queue-free skiing, upgrade to the VIP pass: twice the cost, but fast-lane access on every lift makes it well worth it.
5. For a Once-In-A-Lifetime Adventure – Heli-Skiing from a Superyacht
HANSE EXPLORER OR NOMADS OF THE SEAS, PATAGONIA
If heli-skiing from a superyacht isn’t on your bucket list, it should be. Patagonia’s yacht-based operations – such as the Hanse Explorer and Nomads of the Seas – are less about bagging vertical and more about the sheer wonder of the experience. You’re not just skiing; you’re voyaging through one of the most remote and spectacular corners of the planet, tracing a chain of volcanoes that runs from Villarrica all the way south, not unlike the Cascades in the US.
The terrain here is defined by consistency, not depth. Like at Rio Palena, you won’t find waist-deep powder or perfectly dry champagne snow – but what you will get is dependable corn. Close proximity to the Pacific means these slopes are heavily influenced by oceanic conditions, and can be very icy in the depths of winter. But time it right, and conditions are magic. Late-season is the sweet spot. Start the day on a north-facing slope that’s already caught some sun, then follow the aspect around the volcano as the light shifts, finishing with south-facing runs in perfect spring conditions.
The experience requires a big group, deep pockets, and a sense of adventure. But skiing from a floating five-star base through the Patagonian fjords? There’s simply nothing else like it.
When to go: Late October to November for the most reliable conditions and softened spring snow.
How long to spend: A week.
How to get there: Fly into Santiago then take a connecting flight to Puerto Montt, where both yachts dock.
LEGEND, ANTARCTICA
This is frontier skiing in its purest form. There are no ski lodges in Antarctica – just ice, sea, sky, and a superyacht. The first heli-ski trips here were entirely private affairs, but today, chartered expeditions aboard Legend offer access to the most exclusive ski destination on Earth.
Antarctica isn’t where you go for a hardcore, ski-until-your-legs-burn programme. It’s about the full experience: sailing through an otherworldly seascape, touching down on untouched ridgelines, making fresh tracks where almost no one has before.
One of many extraordinary activities on offer, skiing is only part of the story. You’re just as likely to spend the afternoon kayaking among icebergs, spotting whales and penguins from the deck, or visiting scientific research outposts. Even non-skiers are catered for – just flying up to a mountaintop in this landscape is unforgettable. It’s also ideal for couples where only one partner skis: with onboard spas, wildlife excursions, and cinematic views from every window, there’s no shortage of magic for both.
When to go: January to March
How long to spend: A week.
How to get there: Fly into Chile’s Punta Arenas, then take a charter flight directly to King George Island, where Legend awaits.
6. For First Tracks on Every Run
EL AZUFRE
High in the Andes and entirely off-grid, this seven-room retreat on a privately owned ski reserve is as remote as they come. Snowcat-skiing is the main event here, with impeccably prepared corduroy and guaranteed first tracks on every descent. There are no queues, no crowds – just groomed runs rolled out on demand and near-limitless terrain.
The terrain itself as flexible as the programme, and works especially well for mixed-ability groups, ideal for families or couples where not everyone skis at the same level. If one partner wants mellow pistes and the other is chasing steeps, both can be accommodated. There’s also heli-skiing on offer, and most guests mix it up: a few days on the CAT, one or two with the heli, then back again. Vertical ranges from 600 to 1,000m per run, with shorter laps meaning more drops per day.
The lodge itself isn’t flashy, but it’s well-run and comfortable. The set-up is full board, with a private chef who can cater to your every need, and the atmosphere is relaxed and familiar – you’ll see the same faces all week, and the team are friendly and attentive without being overbearing. The real luxury here is the terrain, the sense of isolation, and the stillness.
Getting there: Accessible only by helicopter—25–30 minutes from Los Molles (a four-hour drive from Mendoza City), near Las Leñas.
How long to spend: Five to eight days. Programmes run Saturday–Saturday, Saturday–Wednesday, or Tuesday–Saturday.
Best time to go: July to mid-September.
Equipment tips from our ski experts
We’re often asked what gear is worth packing. If you own ski boots you love, bring them – any seasoned skier will tell you they’re the one bit of kit worth hauling across continents. The same goes for outerwear. Skis, though? Best to leave them behind.
Lugging skis around South America, especially if skiing is just one chapter in a wider journey, is more trouble than it’s worth. Conditions can shift dramatically – icy groomers one day, deep powder the next – and renting on the ground gives you the freedom to choose the right equipment for the terrain each day. Carving skis for cruising, fat skis for heli or CAT days. Through our partners on the ground, we can source top-of-the-line gear wherever you’re headed. In the more established resorts, ski shops are well-stocked with the latest models; in more remote areas, we’ll have it delivered to your lodge.
Snowboarders should check in advance, as some shops cater for both, others don’t. And if you’re slotting in a quick ski fix between cities, deserts or jungles and don’t fancy packing your whole wardrobe, we can arrange outerwear hire too. Jackets, salopettes, even gloves and goggles – so you can travel light without sacrificing your comfort on the mountain.
CONTACT US
Planning a ski trip to South America? Speak to our specialists today.
Conde Nast Traveler Specialists every year since 2017
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For CAT Skiing
EL AZUFRE
Tucked deep in the Andes and entirely off-grid, this seven-room retreat is as remote as they come. While it isn’t flashy, it’s well-run and comfortable. The real luxury here, for many, is the sense of isolation.
Both CAT and heli-skiing are available, and many guests mix it up: a few days on the CAT, one or two with the heli, then back again. Vertical ranges from 600 to 1,000m per run, with shorter laps meaning more drops per day. When heli-skiing, you’ll lift off just outside the lodge, so every minute is maximised – unlike Santiago-based operations, where long morning transfers eat into flight time.
The terrain itself as flexible as the programme, and works especially well for mixed-ability groups. El Azufre can groom runs on demand – ideal for families or couples where not everyone skis at the same level. If one partner wants soft, fresh corduroy and the other is chasing steeps, both can be accommodated.
Back at the lodge, the set-up is full board, with a private chef who can cater to your every need. The atmosphere is relaxed and familiar – you’ll see the same faces all week, and the team are friendly and attentive without being overbearing. The focus is on the terrain, the stillness, and the pure, unfiltered mountain experience.
Getting there: Accessible only by helicopter—25–30 minutes from Los Molles (a four-hour drive from Mendoza City), near Las Leñas.
How long to spend: Five to eight days. Programmes run Saturday–Saturday, Saturday–Wednesday, or Tuesday–Saturday.
Best time to go: July to mid-September.
