Blissfully unspoilt and offering Uruguay’s loveliest beaches, Rocha province is dominated by swathes of luxuriant grassland, where south of the Brazilian border some of the most pampered livestock on the planet graze. The riding here is exceptional and the handful of estancias that accept guests are amongst our favourites.
Most people come here for the beaches, as yet unspoilt by the extravagances of Punta and Jose Ignacio. Low key La Pedrera has a great beach and some lovely boutique hotels. Hippy Cabo Polonio, accessible only by 4×4, occupies a sandy peninsula dotted with wooden ranchos with no electricity or running water. We know of few lovelier beaches; the place offers a perfect little hideaway for those who don’t mind sacrificing a few creature comforts.