In the once-forgotten village of Uruguay’s Pueblo Garzón, Francis Mallmann has cooked up something far more than a culinary experience.
Long before the name “Garzón,” was shared between a restaurant, winery, boutique hotel, and artist community, it was a 19th century railway village just half an hour northwest of Jose Ignacio. In the late 1970s, renowned Argentine chef Francis Mallmann happened upon Pueblo Garzón, at that time a deserted tumbleweed town, and fell in love.
Today, it’s a curious village devoted to food, wine, a unique art scene, and above all else, silence. And despite its recent buzz, Garzón maintains the air of a well-kept secret, one that effortlessly evokes the romance of a bygone era…
It makes sense why Mallmann—a poet of taste, master of open-fire cooking, and a bohemian wanderer—was enamored by this town that’s seemingly frozen in time. Garzón’s wide, dirt roads are rambled by its few year-long residents and the occasional horse and carriage. Its original train station stands crumbling yet strong against the unfolding Uruguayan sierras. Like the set of an old western, there’s a stillness in the air that makes it feel as though the director will shout “cut!” at any moment.
The same Pueblo Garzón that captured Mallmann’s heart once served as an accessible railroad village connecting Montevideo with the coastal provinces of Maldonado and Rocha. By the 1960s, railway use fell to the construction of a new highway and the village’s 2,000 residents plummeted to a mere 200, leaving blocks of partially abandoned 1920s-era homes and storefronts in their wake.
In 2003, Mallmann decided to make use of the town’s outstanding bones. He started by renovating the village’s original general store into one of his nine restaurants: Restaurante Garzón, where the menu, preparation, décor, and concept all reflect its rural origins.
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Gastronomy
Everything served at Restaurante Garzón is locally sourced and cooked using Mallmann’s “seven fire” philosophy: an assemblage of open-flame cooking techniques derived from gaucho and European migrations. Highlights include an elevated tenderloin milanesa, empanadas baked in a clay oven, the tangy surprise of charred oranges served in a colorful grilled bread appetizer, and watching it all ablaze from the open kitchen. A meal here starts at 150 USD per person.
Guests can learn the secrets behind the siete fuegos during half day, full day, or week-long cooking experiences designed by Mallmann and his team.
A half day lesson promises a delectable 5-course lunch prepared as a group amidst the charming streets of Pueblo Garzón. This experience is led by Mallmann’s staff and starts at a rate of 487.50 USD per person for a minimum party of six.
A full day experience is led by Mallmann in the countryside, where the world of wild cooking brings participants a newfound appreciation for the rustic, fire-based gastronomy that epitomizes Uruguayan culture. Pricing and scheduling for this exclusive experience depends on the time of year and Mallmann’s calendar.
Groups of 8-14 people may opt for an intimate week-long tour of Garzón and its surrounding areas guided by Mallmann. This exclusive experience is a culinary adventure designed for guests to fully absorb the culture, terrain, and lifestyle that colors Uruguay.
Between the rolling hills of Garzón and the sandy shores of Jose Ignacio, you’ll cook over fire, explore by horseback, hike, bike, and sip your way through the week, unveiling Mallmann’s favorite enclaves in the region with him as your shepherd. All meals, drinks, accommodation, cooking classes, and activities are included in this rich 7-day itinerary. This small group journey starts at 234,000 USD for the whole experience, or 33,429 USD per room. Day-to-day activities can be amended according to the season and group profile.
Accommodation
Despite his celebrity status, any experience at Restaurante Garzón feels like you’ve been invited to Mallmann’s home. There’s a bowl of lemons on each table and a simple elegance in its black wooden floorboards and iron chandeliers. The aesthetics and hospitality of the restaurant are echoed by the adjoining Hotel Garzón and Casa Anna, which together total nine beautiful rooms. Each comes with their own king bed, bathroom, fireplace, garden view, and access to a private pool.
Art Scene
Mallmann is given at least partial credit for pioneering what Garzón is today: not only a place for summertime regulars seeking reprieve from the boisterous social scene of Punta del Este, but a budding artist community of international ascendance.
Many visual artists from various continents have made Garzón their permanent home, forming an eclectic community around workshops, galleries, and yearly retreats. The town now plays a central role in a month-long itinerary of summer art festivals. The annual “ArtFest,” organized by a local creative institute called “CAMPO,” takes place every December in the village. This three-day event is followed by ESTE ARTE, an annual arts festival in Punta Del Este, and then by the Jose Ignacio International Film Festival (JIIFF) in late January. Galleries in Garzón host events for ESTE ARTE, and it’s original train station is used to project featured films from JIIFF. Mallmann himself has even installed an art gallery across the street from the restaurant, further uplifting the mise en scene he helped establish.
Another noteworthy—and family friendly—art experience near the village is Tierra Garzón. This spacious sculpture park harbors a stunning collection of outdoor sculptures that exist in conversation with their natural surroundings. Discover the biodiversity of the sierras as you admire the exhibitions free of cost, 365 days a year.
Wine
Pueblo Garzón’s revival coincided with the dawn of a new age of winemaking in Uruguay. Opened in 2016, Bodega Garzón, an impressive winery just thirty-minutes from the town, covers 2,200 hectares of exceptional terroir. Here, ancient granitic soils and native forests thrive under the influence of Atlantic winds to produce award-winning vinos with a strong sense of place. Bodega Garzón is the number one exporter of Uruguayan wines and a bastion of sustainable viticulture in South America. For the last decade, Mallmann has served as the culinary director of the winery’s restaurant, which offers a seasonal menu and panoramic views of the vineyard and surrounding countryside.
Mallmann’s purist yet innovative touch on the town of Garzón falls in step with his cooking philosophy, in that old practices and aesthetics need not be reinvented, but refined. Perhaps that is why, in spite of it’s recent stir, Garzón’s sense of mystery remains in tact.
Intrigued by the big spirit of this small town? Join the growing group of travelers wishing to taste the magic of Garzón by getting in touch with our travel designers today.
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