A family-run fazenda in the Atlantic Forest, where guests share the kitchen table with their hosts.
The road to Fazenda Yamandu leaves Lumiar for a rust-red track, descending through forest and pasture into a valley crossed by the Macaé River. Around three hours from Rio, the air is cooler, birds gather among the banana trees and mornings begin with coffee, tropical fruit and the sound of the forest waking up.
Owners Henry Ajl and Tatiana spent 11 years running PATA, one of our favourite lodges in Chilean Patagonia, before making their home here. Fazenda Yamandu has just three rooms, arranged between two restored pau a pique houses once occupied by farm workers. Meals are shared around the family’s kitchen table, walks often set out with the hosts and their dogs, and much of life here is connected to their work restoring 200 hectares of Atlantic Forest.
What we love about Fazenda Yamandu
- Three rooms housed within two restored pau a pique cottages, built using the local wattle-and-daub technique
- Henry and Tatiana’s company, which makes a stay feel closer to visiting friends than checking into a hotel
- The couple’s long-term project to restore 200 hectares of Atlantic Forest
- Swimming in the Macaé River and following the water through the property to small waterfalls
- Tanagers, trogons, hummingbirds and other birdlife moving between the trees throughout the day
- Chef Chico’s feijoada, grilled meats and caipirinhas, served around the family table
Begin with coffee and fruit from the farm before following the river into the forest.
Walk through the hills and recovering forest, keeping binoculars close for the many birds found across the property. Follow the Macaé River through the valley, swim beneath the waterfalls or find a warm rock beside the water and while away the afternoon.
The surrounding countryside also offers an introduction to roça culture: the small-scale farming traditions that have long defined rural life in this part of Brazil. Visits can be arranged to meet local families and learn about weaving, music, foraging and the preparation of broa de milho, a corn bread scented with fennel.
Back at the fazenda, meals are an important part of the day. Chef Chico cooks Brazilian dishes like feijoada, grilled meats, rice and vegetables, often accompanied by fruit grown on the property. Dinner is shared at the kitchen table, usually with the hosts, their family and a round of caipirinhas.
When to Travel
April to November generally brings cooler and drier conditions to the mountains around Lumiar, making this the best period for walking, birdwatching and exploring the forest. May to September has the lowest rainfall, although mornings and evenings can feel cool, particularly in July and August. December to March is warmer for river swimming but also more humid, with heavier rain making outdoor plans less predictable.
ENQUIRE NOWCONTACT US
Private travel to Latin America and Antarctica, designed by specialists.
Conde Nast Traveler Specialists every year since 2017
