WELCOME TO CASA DE LA REAL ADUANA
Just off Pátzcuaro’s main plaza, this 16th-century mansion was once the colonial tax house of New Spain. Today Casa de la Real Aduana is a five-suite hideaway.
The owners – Didier Dorval, a French photographer, and his wife Gemma Macouzet, a Mexican artist – have spent years restoring the property as a personal museum and a living archive of Michoacán’s craft and heritage.
The couple are serious collectors, with incredible taste – expect rooms cluttered with European antiques and paintings, Manuel Morales pottery on the hearth, masks, textiles and traditional ceramics.
What we love about Casa de la Real Aduana
- The location is a tranquil sanctuary in Pátzcuaro’s historic heart yet moments from the main plaza.
- The blend of fine art and regional Michoacán crafts, including textiles and pottery, throughout the house.
- The hosts are artists, collectors and cultural custodians who share their home with generosity and discretion.
- Evening meals by candlelight, available on request with advance notice, often served with music, mezcal and stories.
- The private courtyards, patios and library are ideal for quiet reading or reflection.
- Cultural programming, including occasional live music recitals and guided tours with local experts.
What to do at Casa de la Real Aduana
Pátzcuaro makes a wonderful stop on a road trip through Mexico’s central highlands.
This sleepy little town sits in the highlands of Michoacán, just a few hours from Mexico City, and is filled with baroque churches, Purépecha ruins, cobbled lanes and markets. Browse the town’s artisan stalls, take a cooking class, or visit private art studios and local haunts with our guide.
Beyond town, explore the Purépecha communities around Lake Pátzcuaro. Take a boat across to Janitzio, whose steep lanes climb from the water towards the hilltop monument; visit Tzintzuntzan, the former Purépecha capital, where ancient yácata pyramids overlook the lake; visit workshops in Santa Clara del Cobre, where generations of artisans have worked copper by hand and the sound of hammering carries from workshops around town; or venture further into the countryside to explore Paricutín volcano on foot or horseback.
When to Travel
The dry season (October to March) is best for outdoor exploration, with crisp mornings and sunlit afternoons. This is also the most festive period, especially around Día de los Muertos in early November.
From April to September, expect warm days and occasional rain, particularly in the afternoons, which turn the surrounding countryside green and lush.
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