Uruguay may be small, but it has an outsized way of getting under your skin. Short distances, varied landscapes, and an easy sense of safety make it a country made for the open road.
This sixteen-day route brings together the places that, for us, define Uruguay. It begins in the UNESCO-listed riverside town of Colonia del Sacramento; takes you inland to the working estancias and vineyards of the country’s rural interior; stops for markets and music in the capital of Montevideo; then follows the Atlantic coast from polished Jose Ignació to its quieter, remoter beaches.
Along the way, there’s excellent cooking, a confident art scene, and landscapes that change more than you’d expect from a country this compact.
DAY 1
Colonia del Sacramento
Begin your journey in Colonia del Sacramento, a riverside town where a rich history lingers in its uneven cobblestones and sun-faded facades. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Colonia is a place of quiet beauty, its streets a patchwork of Portuguese and Spanish legacies.
Set out on a walking tour of the Old City and discover the stories of its layered past through the aged fortress walls, the lighthouse standing sentinel over the river, and the beautiful coloured houses. Cap off the tour with a tasting of Uruguay’s beloved yerba mate, a traditional herbal tea that symbolises interpersonal connection and hospitality. For food lovers, a visit to La Vigna Cheese Farm offers a hands-on experience in artisanal cheesemaking.
Spend the night at Charco Hotel in one of their White Rooms, thoughtfully designed with magnificent views of the river and exposed stone walls that reflect the town’s colonial history.
DAYS 2 & 3
Carmelo
A two-hour drive brings you to Carmelo, a picturesque wine region with rolling vineyards that stretch out to the horizon. Stay at Narbona Wine Lodge, a historic winery turned boutique retreat.
Highlights include a visit to the Jesuit Ruins for a window into Uruguay’s colonial and spiritual history, followed by wine tastings at two of Carmelo’s boutique wineries: Bodega El Legado and Bodega Cordano. We highly recommend the region’s Tannat wines, Uruguay’s flagship varietal, which offer bold, earthy flavours. In the evening, a sunset cruise along the Río de la Plata provides spectacular views and a moment for pause after a day of exploring.
DAYS 4-6
Durazno
Heading inland, the landscape transforms into vast plains dotted with estancias. Your home for the next three days is Estancia La Bendición, a working ranch that epitomises rural Uruguayan life. The property’s trademark is their renovated train wagon rooms, each with a private deck and bar.
Life on the ranch follows its own rhythm. Spend your days riding across open fields and gaining a unique insight into sustainable cattle farming from the ranch’s knowledgeable staff. Meals are centred around the asado – Uruguayan barbecue – where the owners share their stories and connection to the land over the grill.
DAYS 7 & 8
Montevideo
Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, balances cosmopolitan edge with a laid-back coastal atmosphere. Your base here is Hotel Montevideo, a boutique retreat offering understated style in the heart of the city.
Head out on a walking tour of the Old City to unveil its varied architecture, from grand neoclassical facades to weathered colonial houses. The streets pulse with activity; at the lively markets and the iconic Mercado del Puerto, the smoky aroma of grilled meats fills the air and draws diners into jam-packed parrillas.
In the afternoon, discover the secret world of Uruguayan drumming at the studio of Fernando ‘Lobo’ Nuñez, a luthier and percussionist who’s considered a legend on the Uruguayan Candombe music scene – an Afro-Uruguayan style of music and dance that originated amongst enslaved people centuries ago.
Round off your stay with a visit to Los Nadies boutique winery where you can enjoy a tour and dinner with Manuel Filgueira, one of the winemakers behind Uruguay’s emerging boutique wine scene.
DAYS 9 & 10
El Edén
Head east to El Edén, where the landscape shifts to gentle hills and a patchwork of vineyards, reflecting the region’s agricultural roots. Here, you’ll be staying at the elegant Sacromonte Landscape Hotel.
Start your exploration at Olivos de las Animas; here, olive oils are crafted with the same care and precision as fine wines. Follow this with a tasting at Alto de la Ballena, a tiny winery in the Sierra de la Ballena where the signature blend is the unusual Tannat-Viognier, created by owners Alvaro and Paula Pivel. For those keen to explore on foot, the eight-kilometre trail from Pueblo Edén to Viña Edén winds gently through rolling hills and prairies, ending with a winery lunch and tasting.
No visit here is complete without a trip to Garzón, often likened to Tuscany for its rolling landscapes and culinary reputation. We adore Bodega Garzón, a family-owned boutique winery that is consistently ranked in the World’s 10 Best Vineyards; sustenance here comes courtesy of Patagonian superstar chef Francis Mallmann, whose penchant for open fire cooking adds a deliciously wild element to dining.
DAYS 11-13
La Pedrera
A drive along the Atlantic coast brings you to La Pedrera, a bohemian beach town that moves at its own unhurried pace. Here, you’ll be staying at Las Brisas, a mid-century modern property just a few steps from the beach with sweeping views over the ocean.
Adventures here are boundless. One day, explore untouched dunes and the remote fishing village of Cabo Polonio, where sea lions bask on rocky shores, oblivious to the world around them. Another day might lead you into the Santa Teresa National Park, where trails wind through dense forest alive with birdsong, eventually climbing to Cerro Verde. From its summit, the coastline stretches endlessly in both directions, a reminder of the vastness of this untamed edge of Uruguay.
DAYS 14-16
Jose Ignacio
Stay: Ayana
Conclude your journey in José Ignacio, a once-sleepy fishing village that’s now South America’s hippest beach destination, frequented by free spirits and the international jet-set alike. Here, you’ll be staying at Ayana — a chic modern getaway created by art collectors Robert and Edda Kofler. The hotel’s star attraction is US artist James Turrell’s Skyscape installation, a spectacular white marble pyramid that was two years in the making.
While here, don’t miss MACA: Achugarry Museum of Contemporary Art and the Atchugarry Foundation, where we can arrange visits to artist Pablo Atchugarry’s private studio and meetings with the man himself. Anastasio Lagoon offers the perfect playground for a morning of cycling and kayaking, while horseback rides to the beach offer a slower, more contemplative way to take in the landscape.
For an unforgettable final evening, take a sunset ride to the shores of a local lake for an al fresco fire pit asado beneath the stars — a fitting end to your Uruguayan journey.
Intrigued by this journey through Uruguay? Speak to our travel specialists about designing your own bespoke adventure.
