One of the world’s great hideaways, Hotel Esencia is set among palms and tropical gardens on the white sands of Xpu-Ha Bay.
The elegant mansion was originally built as a private Caribbean retreat for the Italian Duchess Rosa di Ferrari. Today, the estate occupies 50 acres of landscaped gardens and lush tropical jungle between Playa del Carmen and Tulum. The original whitewashed house remains at its centre, with 47 suites and four villas – including the Esencia Mansion – hidden in the jungle or set right on the sea.
It has been owned since 2014 by art collector and entrepreneur Kevin Wendle, whose collection of art, antiques and furniture gives the place much of its character. There are three restaurants, two pools and a superb spa, but the scale and layout make it feel much more like a private estate than a Riviera Maya resort.
What we love about Hotel Esencia
- The location on Xpu-Ha, with clear, shallow water and a reef just offshore where you can snorkel among turtles and tropical fish.
- Rooms are spacious and private: the simpler Jungle Suites have terraces looking into the canopy, while the Rooftop Wellness Suites have private gyms, rooftop pools and outdoor showers, and the Master Beach Suites put you right on the sand.
- Owner Kevin Wendle’s eye is everywhere, with a mix of mic-century furnishings, classic pieces and Mexican crafts – spot originals by Pablo Picasso and Le Corbusier from his own private art collection around the property.
- Long lunches at Mistura, beneath a huge beachfront palapa with 180-degree Caribbean views, with cooking from across Mexico: fruit and spices from Yucatán, mole from Oaxaca and wine from Baja.
- The spa, where therapists mix herbs, plants, oils, spices and honey in a Maya organic kitchen. Beyond the treatment rooms there’s a temazcal, infrared sauna, ice chamber, Swiss showers, cold plunge and sensory-deprivation tank.
Start early with yoga beneath the ocean-facing palapa, followed by breakfast overlooking the sea and a swim in Xpu-Ha Bay.
Take a paddleboard north along the beach to the little lagoon hidden behind the mangroves, or snorkel the reef just offshore, where turtles and tropical fish are regularly seen. Back at Esencia, beneath one of the cabanas, swim laps in the heated pools and wander up to Mistura for ceviche and grilled fish at lunch.
At the spa, there’s a full circuit of steam rooms, sauna, ice chamber, cold plunge and hydromassage pool, along with a temazcal – traditional sweat lodge. For active guests, there are also excellent tennis and pickleball courts beneath the palms.
Nearby, skip Tulum in favour of exploring the Yucatán’s inland cenotes and underground river systems inland. Some excellent cave diving and snorkelling is within easy reach, and we can arrange a private guide to take you to quieter cenotes before returning to Xpu-Ha for the afternoon. The wetlands, mangroves and wildlife of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve lie further south.
To get to Hotel Esencia, you can fly into Cancun International Airport. From here, private transportation can be arranged for your hour and a half drive to the hotel, which is located on the Riviera Maya, between Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Some guests may opt for a more exclusive travel experience and use the hotel’s helicopter service.
When to Travel
The best time to visit Mexico’s Caribbean coast is during the winter months, from December to April, when it is less humid and more mild. This period offers pleasant conditions for enjoying the beach and outdoor activities.
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