All glass and hardwood, Refugia (‘The Refuge’) showcases the richest and wildest elements of Chiloé, Chilean Patagonia’s most enchanting – and little-explored – Pacific island.
Juan, our impossibly charming guide, greets us like an old friend. Boarding a beautiful eucalyptus boat, he enthuses over life on the island – its folkloric history, penguin colonies and pristine beaches. That afternoon, we settle in front of the Refugia log fire, steaming mugs in hand, to take in wilderness views over the Reloncaví Sound. It is then time to saddle up and explore the archipelago on horseback before returning to hot-stone massages and a table-warping spread of local seafood.